Showing posts with label cupcakes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cupcakes. Show all posts

08/09/2011

I'm Somewhere Inbetween

So you know how I made all that fuss at the beginning of summer about how I was going to miss slow cooking and afternoons in the kitchen and big bold winter dishes? Well, summer is drawing to a close and I'm finding myself not quite ready to give up on delicate, barely-cooked food picked straight from the garden. I find there's just no pleasing some people. More often than not, I find I'm one of them. I come most alive during periods of transition; when there's the promise of new challenges and scenarios but the old ones are still, comfortingly, in play. I don't so much like change, as the possibility of it; I've always been obsessed with potential. I guess that's why I'm currently happier in my kitchen than anywhere else. The hedgerows are starting to come alive, and I'm picking damsons and blackberries almost everywhere I walk in the villages, but I've still got tomatoes and courgettes and beans ripening in the garden. Autumn is coming but it's very easy to keep Summer alive.

The shops, at the moment, seem to be aiding and abetting my pleasure in indecision. The erratic Summer we've had seems to be affecting not just my garden, but the country as a whole. Some of the best 'summer' produce I've bought has been in the last week or so: late varieties of every type of berry and currant you could conceivably imagine; stunning courgettes and beans; all cheap, plentiful, and wonderful. So i can't help it if my mind is somewhere in July, can I? My surroundings are conspiring to help me.

Now, most of the aforementioned berries and currants were eaten raw, or made into simple compotes and eaten over yoghurt at what I, the nocturnal barmaid, have the gall to call breakfast time. But when you're buying perishables in glut-size lots, you have to vary up how you eat them pretty quickly or you're going to end up wasting them, or getting bored shitless with them, or both. So, when faced with the third perfect little punnet of raspberries after days and days of raw raspberries and yoghurt, I knew I had to make them into something that I would, and more importantly, a lot of other people would help, eat. And quickly.

Now I'm not sure about anyone else round here, but when it's a question of food and mass appeal, the answer, to my mind, is pretty much always cake. Everyone likes cake. Well, this is not strictly true, but everyone I've ever met who has professed to not like cake has been so wilfully miserable and stubborn that I've not kept them around very long. So, to put it another way; all of my friends like cake. If I make it, they will eat it. So I grabbed my punnet of raspberries and got myself flicking through Harry Eastwood's Red Velvet and Chocolate Heartache, and found the perfect 'I'm not letting go of Summer and you can't make me' recipe:

Raspberry and Elderflower Cupcakes

2 medium free-range eggs
140g caster sugar
200g topped, tailed, peeled, and finely grated courgette
3 tbsp elderflower cordial (sadly, not home made as I missed the elderflowers this year, but I had this knocking around from making pitchers of lovely Plymouth Lemonade to get drunk on)
80g white rice flour (I used plain, you're allowed to substitute it)
120g ground almonds
2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt (I omitted this; I don't often salt cakes unless they're chocolate)
120g fresh raspberries plus 12 extra ones for the tops

For the icing:

140g icing sugar
3 tbsp elderflower cordial

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees c/gas mark 4 and line a muffin tray with paper cases (note, I found this recipe created 18 cakes, so I lined an extra six hole tray).

Whisk the eggs and sugar in a large mixing bowl for 5 minutes, until pale and quadrupled in volume.

Add the grated courgette and the elderflower cordial, and whisk again. Mix in the flour, ground almonds, baking powder and salt until they are well introduced. Gently fold in the raspberries, taking care not to crush them up too much.

Spoon the mixture into cupcake cases, and place in the oven for 25 minutes until risen and cooked. Don't be alarmed that they are flat on the top rather than dome shaped. This is perfectly normal.

Cool the cupcakes for 15 minutes while you make the icing. Sieve the icing sugar into a small mixing bowl. Add the elderflower cordial and mix until it forms a loose white icing. Add colouring if you want to use it.

Ice each cake individually and top with a raspberry.

And here are mine:


Cute little things, aren't they? I have to admit that even as a 23 year old girl I still get just a tiny bit delighted when things I make look like illustrations from children's books. It reminds me of the time when in Brownies I had to host a tea party to get my hostess badge (you're damn right I've got a badge in hostessing; I got one at Guides too), so I went through a load of kid's books, being a kid at the time, along with my mum's Beginner's cookbook from the seventies, in order to work out what a tea party looked like and involved. I remember being very impressed when the cakes I'd made looked like the ones in a picture from a book about kittens having tea. I dare say these little things wouldn't have looked out of place on the kittens' pastel tea party table, either, so I am just as pleased with myself this time.

Still, a busy girl like me uses her hostess badge skills behind a bar these days, so I don't have time for tea parties. Instead I took a whole bunch of the cakes to work to give to my coworkers, who received them with pleasure. they were marvellous tasting little things, and i enjoyed the cook's share of them before work (and after work), with a pot of rose infused tea. But I didn't go so far as trying to share it with my cats. Village life hasn't got to me that badly yet.

16/06/2011

cupcakes don't get tougher than this.

okay guys, so i know i promised you sourdough action on my next posting session, but my super-hectic-village-barmaid-living-in-rural-suburbia lifestyle has conspired to get in the way, and i haven't had a chance to bake with it yet. obviously i am anxious to, and childlike levels of impatience are increasing by the day, so you will be the first to know about it when i do get the chance, but in the meantime i would like to tell you about something that i hope you'll find equally exciting.

now, i am not the competitive type. i would never last five minutes on masterchef because i would be far too interested and excited by what everyone else was doing to focus on trying to trash the competition. but if you throw in the opportunity to eat lots of cake, drink lots of wine, and spend an evening talking to people as interested in baking as i am, well, you've got yourself a competitor. throw in the fact i'm always moaning about there being fuck all to do in northampton, and it becomes very clear as to why i always make sure to get off my arse and do something whenever i am able to attend the monthly iron cupcake competition, at the nook arts cafe in northampton's fishmarket gallery.

anyway, the rules of an iron cupcake are very simple. there is a theme, which you can interpret in any way you see fit. you must make twelve cupcakes (so everyone can try some), and other than doing your utmost to make sure your cupcakes also look and taste lovely, that's basically it. there are prizes for first, second, and third place, and as much tea and/or coffee as you can drink (or, if you're anything like me, an admirably stocked bar that is open for business). you try all the cupcakes, and vote for your favourite three. basically, it's a recipe for an enjoyable sugar rush of an evening.

the theme this month was fine art cupcakes. i have to admit, it left me a little bit stumped. in terms of the visual arts world i'm a little bit of an uncultured swine, having succumbed to the love of the written word at an age early enough to ensure my head's been in a book that doesn't contain pictures for most of my adult life. so it took me ages to come up with anything approaching an idea coherent to the theme. this may also have had something to do with the fact i also like the flavours i include in my cupcake to be coherent with the idea i have chosen to work with. it isn't really enough for something to look cool for me; it has to taste amazing too. i eventually settled on frida kahlo as my inspiration, although i have to admit i played pretty fast and loose with it; citing her preoccupation with mexicana as my visual inspiration, and drawing my flavour ideas from that, settling on a chilli chocolate and dulce de leche combo.

so, let's get onto the constructing of my little beauties (which basically took an afternoon):

dulce de leche

right, first thing's first, you need to get your dulce de leche on the go, because this takes a long-ass time to make, even if it is a fairly hands-off job. all you need for this is a tin of condensed milk. there are quite a few ways to make it, but honestly, i choose the wimpy way, being quite afraid of either trashing the kitchen or ending up with some hardcore caramel burns. i use a tin opener to poke two holes in the tin at the top, and set it in a very large saucepan, which i fill up with water almost to the top of the tin. the water needs to be boiling gently for 2-3 hours, topped up regularly so that it doesn't boil dry. then you leave it to cool a little, pour out the contents of the tin into a bowl, and stir it all up til you get something that looks like this, which you leave to cool:




trying to avoid eating it with a spoon as it is is the hard part here people, trust me.

since your dulce de leche will happily putter away on the stove doing its thing with minimal demand on your attention, you can use this time to crack on with everything else. now, for the actual cake part of my cupcake i played it pretty simple. i knew it would have to play merely a supporting role to the dulce de leche and ganache combo i was planning, so i reached for the turquoise covered beginner's coobook by rosemary wadey that belonged to my mother, that i have been making sponge cakes from since i was tall enough to reach the kitchen counter stood on a chair. in hindsight i probably would have ramped up the levels of cocoa in the sponge to make the cake slightly more bitter and intense, but at the time i was on the autopilot the recipe sends me into. so here is your basic go-to chocolate sponge recipe, and it makes a few more than twelve which gives you leeway for mistakes:

basic chocolate sponge recipe

ingredients:
150g butter
150g caster sugar
3 eggs
125g self raising flour
25g cocoa
vanilla essence
few tablespoonfuls of milk

preheat the oven to 190 degrees c. put the butter and sugar into a large bowl and cream together untl the mixture is light and fluffy.

beat in the vanilla essence, and the eggs, one at a time, followed by a tablespoon of the flour to stabilize the mixture.

sift the remaining flour and cocoa, and fold into the mixture lightly. loosen the mixture to a soft dropping consistency with a little milk.

spoon into a 12-hole muffin tin lined with cases, and bake for about 10-15 minutes. you'll have enough to do an extra half batch or so. perfect if you worry about fuck ups the way i do.

and it's as easy as that. i didn't bother taking a picture here because you all know what chocolate sponge cakes look like, and it's not like i could take an awesome photo of them that you'd all be amazed by, so who cares right? anyway, with my cakes cooling and my dulce de leche still doing it's thing, i got on with my icing:

chilli chocolate ganache

okay, so i love ganache. i love it so much i'd find any excuse to make it, and i consequently pretty much autopilot it whenever i do these days. to start this chilli one i put two dried red chillies and a cinnamon stick in a saucepan with 250ml, or thereabouts, of double cream. on a low heat i bought it almost to the boil, then took it off the heat and left it to infuse for about a half hour. i fished out the chillies and cinnamon, broke up about 250g of the darkest chocolate i could get my hands on (ordinarily i'd choose green and blacks, but lindt's 85 percent was packing the biggest heat at my hideously huge local supermarket, so i went with that) and added it to the pan, along with a small knob of butter (just whatever i chipped off with a teaspoon. i bunged the pan back on the heat, stirring continuously until i got myself a sleek glossy dark brown situation going on. if i'd have wanted something semi-solid, like truffles, or an icing with structure and bite, i'd have left it there, but i was in the mood for something a bit lighter in texture, so i let it cool a little in a bowl, then whipped it a couple of shades lighter in colour and texture. i also let it cool at room temperature, as this gives a softer set to play with, like so:



and now we come on to assembly, folks. there are many ways to fill a cupcake, but to those of us not in possession of a piping bag, the options are limited. i should probably get one at some point, but why do things properly when you can botch them together like i do? while i love cooking i absolutely detest kitchen gadgets, not to mention kitchen gadget people. it's probably down to spending my formative years in a suburban housing estate that makes stepford look rough, but if i go round someone's house and they want to show me their new cherry stoner or milk frother? well ladies and gentlemen, the friendship is over. if i ever start talking to you about a new blender or something, this is me giving you permission to stick my hand in it. anyway, tangent. what do you do if you're filling cupcakes sans unnecessary equipment? fall back on the old butterfly method. with a small sharp knife cut out as deep a cone as you can from the top of the cake. fill the hole with dulce de leche, a la:



cut off the pointed end of the cone, and stick your cake top back on, like so:




(you might notice a touch of ooze there, but these badboys are getting iced, so who gives a fuck?). what comes next? ganache icing, obviously. and then (and this is where i always reveal my icarus tendencies in cake decorating) fondant icing decorations.

i made up a basic fondant icing, (which is just eggwhite, icing sugar, and liquid glucose; my proportions on it being 450g sugar and 50g glucose to every one white, although it varies depending on who you talk to) and i made some sugar skulls (which looked amateur but not horrendous):


and some cacti complete with cactus roses (which were epic fail, and also sort of melted in the car ride over):




presentation is never, ever my strong point. ever. and never has it been more clear than here. but i usually pull back a lot of votes on my taste points at an iron cupcake, and i have to say this time it was no different.

ladies and gentlemen, i, according officially to the photo album on facebook, was a whisker away from placing. i'll take that to mean fourth, and be damn proud of it given a) my hilarious decoration attempts, and b) the fact that the winning three lots of cakes were so ridiculously amazing. i got some pictures to show you of the winners from the official facebook gallery; not that i need to tell you these pictures aren't mine, because you can actually see what they're of.

i mean, this is number three; a totally beautiful gustav klimt themed set of cakes that was cinnamony and chestnutty and let's be frank here, downright stunning to look at as well. they were made by a lovely lady called gabi who i was sat with, who definitely seemed to be my partner in crime in the 'let's get more cake' stakes:



number two were these stunning 'monet's garden' cakes by a lady called caro, which, although you can't really tell from the picture, were also amazingly sparkly. they were apple and maple, which pleased me, as i'm a bit of a sucker for maple syrup, and i counted them as one of my five a day along with the grapes in my wine:




and number one, which actually were my favourite cakes of the evening, were these super yellow andy warhol's banana cakes, made by another lady i had the privilege of being at table with called polly. i voted these top place, because the icing was totally fucking awesome. it tasted like those foam banana sweets i'm not allowed to eat anymore cos they have gelatine in, so i got really excited and ate a whole other one after i'd finished tasting all 10+ cakes that were in the competition. i found out later from polly that she used banana milkshake to flavour the icing, which made me like them even more, cos while she was angsting on an aesthetic level about her cakes, she used a 'pop' food substance in 'em, which i think the man himself would have been proud of (don't know if you've noticed, but my degree has bent my brain into thinking that incorporating ideas about art into technique is the best thing ever)


anyway, i don't feel i've sullied pot tossery's name conceding to these brilliant art cakes, but i will definitely be back for the next round, in which the theme is 'cupcakes in disguise'. i already have what i think might be a brilliant idea. who's coming with me??